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Here at Ultramax Racing Chassis, we put a tremendous amount of effort into each and every product we put on the market. However, we realize that it is not enough to give you the highest quality product that we can produce...

That is why we are dedicated to making sure that you get the most out of our product through our technical support programs and online owners manual area offered on this site.
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This setup tutorial is designed to do just that by familiarizing you with your Ultramax Chassis and giving you the necessary information on chassis preparation and setup analysis that will put you ahead of the pack for the next racing season. Although this tutorial Mentions just one of our chassis designs, the instructions do apply generally to all of our chassis. In the following pages we are going to break down the process that we have found to be most successful in assembling a chassis once it is received from the factory. We will cover topics like squaring and alignment, front end geometry, seat and body mounting, at the track setup analysis and several other important issues that are necessary to keep you out front for future racing seasons and beyond.

1 - Out of the Box
The first thing that should be done when you receive your chassis is to make sure that you have received all of the necessary equipment from the factory. We try very hard to include everything needed to put the finishing touches on your chassis once you receive it but hey, we tend to make mistakes from time to time just like everyone else. So, keep us in check and go over this quick check list to make sure that you have all of the necessary equipment to make your assembly process a quick and easy one. The following things should be included in every chassis purchase:

Left and right side seat strut along with 4 bolts and nuts for each strut and seat hook up point.

Steering wheel with hub, three bolts, three nuts and three cotter keys.

12 wheel nuts and 6 sprocket hub nuts.

Steering column lock and pin.

Once you have made sure that all of the necessary components are there, you are ready to move on to step two which many consider to be the most important step in assembling a new chassis.


2 – Squaring and Alignment
One of the most important parts of assembly on a new chassis is making sure your chassis is square from front to rear and that all of the front end geometry is set to your desired specifications.

It is very important that a certain process is followed when setting your front end geometry and squaring your chassis.

If the process is not followed, your front end may get out of align with itself and the rear axle giving you poor scaling consistency and on track performance.

In this section, we will outline this step-by-step process, breaking down each step for a better understanding of its roll in your chassis on track performance.

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Step 1 – Leveling your Chassis

It is a good idea to level your chassis when setting your front-end geometry so you can take accurate measurements when setting up your front-end. A surface plate used when scaling a chassis works well in completing this step.

Simply level your surface plate and leave the scale plates off. Without wheels or tires, place the chassis flat on the surface plate and make sure that it is stable and level on the plate.

You are now ready to move on to step two.
 
Step 2 – Setting Your Pitman Arm
Front-end geometry consists of a series of angles that set your caster, camber, king pin inclination and Ackerman. Each angle must be set correctly and work together with one another in order for your front end to work at its optimum level. The first step in doing this is making sure your pitman arm is set perpendicular to your level surface as shown in the picture on the left.

A digital smart level that can be found in any hardware catalog is a good tool to have when completing this step. To check its alignment, simply place the smart level parallel to the pitman arm on each side and turn the steering shaft the necessary direction to get the two angles to equal. The angle that you are looking for is around 4° - 5° on each side. Once this is completed, lock your steering lock down on the steering shaft and place the locking pin in it. You are now ready for step three.
Step 3 – Setting your Caster
Each chassis comes with the right front caster set at 10° and the left front caster set at 8°. These settings are obtained when both sides have the center notches lined up on the caster blocks as shown with the left front in the center picture below. For almost all conditions, these caster settings will be a good starting point. However, there are certain situations where a different setting may be desired for a better weight jacking effect. For this case, both the right front and left front caster blocks come equipped with three lines both forward and backward from the original notch. Each line forward or backward is a 2° change in caster. Therefore, on the right front you can go as low as 4° of caster or as high as 16° of caster. Similarly, on the left front you can go as low as 2° of caster or as high as 14° of caster. The following figures illustrate how this works using the left front as an example with the picture on the left set at 6°, the middle at 8° and the right at 10°.

Caster is built into a racing chassis to promote weight transfer, which is a major factor in producing the bite necessary to negotiate each corner on the track. Generally, more caster will produce more weight transfer and more bite and less caster will produce less weight transfer and less bite.

So, on high speed, hard biting racetracks, less caster will be needed since the racetrack itself will be producing most of the necessary bite. Similarly, on low speed, low biting racetracks, more caster will be needed in order to produce the necessary amount of bite in the chassis.

Running more caster in the right front than the left front assists the kart in turning left on corner entry, this is known as caster split. The more caster split that is ran, the more the chassis wants to pull to the left thus, helping the kart turn on corner entry. In a situation of too much caster split, the kart will generally turn in very well on corner entry but pick up a push at the apex of the corner due to an insufficient amount of weight jacking by the left front. If there is not enough caster split in the front end, the driver will have to apply a lot of input to get the kart to turn getting into the corner, making the kart feel tight in the front, or possibly twitchy in the rear, on corner entry.

A few good rules of thumb on caster for those who are less experienced with it are as follows:

• 2° of caster split is a safe amount of split for most all conditions. If you are not experienced with caster or simply don’t like to adjust it much, this split will be the best overall setting for you. It is our recommendation that you don’t exceed 4° of split and never run less than a 0° split.

• Using the right front as a baseline, we have found that you will generally not need to run more than 14° of caster. Most times if you run more than this you will create too much weight jacking to quick and will be unable to keep the kart consistent. Likewise, 6° of caster is the least amount we recommend running. Lower settings than this tend to cause a pushing condition due to a lack of weight jacking.

Naturally, these are simply guidelines to follow. Every racetrack is different and may require caster settings outside of the parameters we have outlined above. However, if you stay within these parameters, we feel confident that your front-end settings will be within a safe range and should be sufficient under most conditions. Now that your Caster is set, we are ready to move onto step 4.

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