Owners Manual Page 3:
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Every driver
obviously has different size characteristics:
short, tall, big, and small and with every case
a different seating position may be needed.
With this being the case, it is hard to state
a universal truth on how to mount your seat.
However, what we will discuss in this section
is some things to look for and do on a consistent
basis when mounting your seat.
The seat can be
mounted on the stand without wheels and tires.
In order to do this you need to find a flat board
or plate of some sort and place under the center
section of the chassis for the bottom of the seat
to sit on as is in the picture on the right. The
first step in mounting a seat is to place the
right side seat strut on the rear cross member
and snug it up just enough to hold it in position
but not so much that it cannot be moved.
Next, loosen both front seat struts up and push
them forward out of the way of the lower portion
of the seat for now. Now place the seat on the
kart with the bottom of the seat lying on the
board we placed under the chassis. Move the rear
of the seat around with the right side seat strut
getting the spine of the seat to line up with
the center of the brake rotor. Line the right
side seat strut up with the seat with a slight
lean towards the front of the kart of roughly
5°.
Now for the part of the seat mounting that greatly
depends on the drivers height, weight, seat
style selection and the type of track. 8 ¾"
from the top of the seat to the top of the axle
will give you the 14" WKA minimum seat height
(shown to the right).
A lot of the newer style seats on the market are
built in a way that the 14" minimum cannot
be reached due to the severe curvature of the
upper rear portion of the seat (consult your nearest
dealer or Ultramax Racing Chassis for further
information). For these style seats, add 1"
to every number that is getting ready to be discussed.
The following list is a list of different driver
sizes and track conditions that will mandate seat
height positioning.
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| Track
Type |
6
and above, 150lbs and above |
Below
6, 150lbs and above |
Below
6, below 150lbs |
| Pavement |
8
¾" from axle |
8
¾" from axle |
8
¾" from axle |
| High
speed/ high bite dirt |
8
¾" from axle |
8
¾" from axle |
10"
from axle |
| High
speed/ medium bite dirt |
8
¾" from axle |
10"
from axle |
11"
from axle |
| Low
speed/ medium bite dirt |
10"
from axle |
10"
from axle |
11"
from axle |
| Low
speed/ low bite dirt |
11"
from axle |
11"
from axle |
12"
from axle |
As always, this chart
is designed to give you an idea of where to mount
your seat. There are several variables that can effect
where your seat needs to be mounted to transfer weight
correctly. However, with the assistance of this chart,
you should be able to get your seat height close for
every track condition.
Now that you have your seat height
set, drill your right side seat strut hole while maintaining proper
seat height. Place the bolt through the seat hole, the seat rubber
on the bolt and then place the nut finger tight on the bolt for
now. Next, put the left side seat strut on the chassis and align
it with the left side of the seat and snug it up as you did the
right side seat strut. Now make sure the back of the seat is near
level from left to right and that you are still maintaining your
desired seat height, then drill your left side seat strut hole and
place the bolt through the hole, place the seat rubber on and finger
tighten the nut.
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You can now slide your front
seat struts up towards the bottom of the seat and align them
with the seat leaving enough clearance to place the rubbers
in between the seat and the strut.
Once they are aligned and tightened down, take a marker and
mark the two holes to be drilled, take the seat back off and
drill the holes. Now you can put the seat back on and place
all four bolts through the holes and finger tighten each nut.
Check one last time to make sure you still have your desired
seat height, the seat is still level from left to right and
that the bottom of the seat does not hang underneath the chassis.
Then tighten the seat bolts and seat struts down. Once your
seat is mounted it should look similar to the picture above.
Now that we have the seat mounted, we can move to hanging
that body.
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5 Hanging the Body
There are three important issues
that must be addressed in hanging your body: ground clearance,
hanging it squarely to the frame and connecting it freely
to your chassis. If you are using the Ultramax Racing Chassis
body kit it should be an easy job for you since the bodies
come pre-cut for proper clearance and fitted for easy joint
connections. There are many different techniques that can
be used to hang a body on a chassis. In this section we will
discuss what we have found to be the easiest and most consistent
way to hang a body.
The first step in hanging a body is to connect the nose to
the right side panel squarely to ensure that your body will
be square to itself throughout the installation. As shown
to the right, you can connect it in three separate places
using either pop rivets or small button head bolts.
To do this, first hold the two pieces together and see how
the joint will fit. Once this is done, clamp the two pieces
together with C-clamp vice grips or something similar and
step back and eye it up to make sure that the nose and the
side panel are square to one another. Once the two are adjusted
to square with one another, go ahead and drill your holes
through both the nose and the side panel and bolt or pop rivet
them together.
We are now ready to fit this portion of the body onto the
kart. To do this, put wheels and tires onto the chassis and
place it on the floor where you are going to hang your body.
Now, slide the nose/ side panel combination onto the chassis
and block it up where it is flush to the bottom of the bumper.
You can do this using a level, 1" x 1" box tubing,
plywood or something similar to this. Next, place the seam
where the side panel and nose are connected together directly
over the right front king pin bolt as shown in the picture
on the left.
This should ensure the proper wheel clearance for both the
front and rear tires. Now, move the body directly left or
right on the chassis to get the side panel about even with
the right rear rim. Once this is done, step back and make
sure the body is square to the chassis. This can be done by
sighting down the right side panel and checking its square
with the right side tires or by looking at the left side panel
joint with the nose making sure it is directly over the left
front king pin bolt.
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Once your body is square to the chassis and is located from
front to rear via the king pin bolts, you can mark your front
bumper connections points with a marker and drill each hole,
one at a time, placing a bolt and nut finger tight in each one
after its drilled. After each bolt has been placed in the nose,
tighten them all down. Now that your nose is located, step back
and make sure the body is still square on the chassis. If it
is still square, relocate the right side nerf bar, if necessary,
to fit flush against the right side panel. You are now ready
to mark each hole in the right side panel and drill each hole
one at a time, placing a bolt and nut on finger tight after
each hole is drilled. You can now pull your 1" spacers
out from underneath the body and again step back to ensure that
the body is square on the chassis and located properly from
front to rear. Once this is done, you can tighten each bolt
and nut down and move on to mounting the left side panel.
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